Black Headed Stainless Steel Outdoor Cladding Screw 5×50
€35.05
In stock
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Pros and cons
Product specification
- Material
- Metal
- Fire Rating
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Hapatec Hardened Stainless Steel Screws 5×50 ( 200 per box )
Specify Hapatec once and you stop worrying about the fixings on your facade or terrace. Manufactured by Eurotec in Germany from martensitic stainless steel 1.4006 (C1), these are the panel fasteners purpose-built for hardwood — the screws that go in clean, sit flush, and don’t shear when the timber pushes back. They carry European Technical Assessment ETA-11/0024, qualify for service classes 1 to 3 under DIN EN 1995 (Eurocode 5), and are stocked in our yard for delivery across Ireland in stainless, antique and black finishes.
Why Hapatec?
Hardwood punishes ordinary stainless screws. Standard A2 and A4 fasteners are tough on corrosion but soft on torque, and the cost of that softness is screws snapping off mid-drive in dense boards like Yellow Balau, Massaranduba or thermally modified ash. The Hapatec is heat-treated to a martensitic structure, giving it roughly 60% greater breaking torque than V2A and V4A austenitic stainless. In practical terms, you finish the job with the screws you started with.
The geometry is the other half of the story. A scraping groove at the tip clears fibres ahead of the thread, milling ribs above the thread allow the head to seat cleanly without splintering the board, and the TX drive eliminates the screw-hammering that cam-out causes on a Phillips head. The countersunk head sits neatly flush — a small detail that reads as quality across a whole facade or deck.
Installation guidance
You don’t need specialist tooling — a standard impact driver and the correct TX bit is all that’s required, with the matching bit size shown in the product specification. The milling ribs do the work of countersinking for you in most softwoods and medium-density hardwoods, so the head pulls flush without a separate countersink bit.
For dense tropical hardwoods used in terrace and facade work — Iroko, Balau, Massaranduba, Cumaru and similar — pre-drilling is strongly recommended. It’s the single biggest factor in avoiding split board ends and snapped screws, and it takes seconds per fixing once you’re set up. As a rule of thumb, pre-drill to roughly 70% of the screw’s core diameter, keep your edge distances generous, and let the drill do the cutting rather than forcing the screw.
Compatibility & care
You have two good options when matching Hapatec to your project, and the choice comes down to the timber. The hardened C1 stainless range — what’s listed here — is the right call for European softwoods, thermowood, and most non-tannic hardwoods used in freely exposed structures. It’s the everyday workhorse and the better value of the two routes. For woods containing tannins such as oak, Cumaru, Intsia and Robinia, or for coastal sites and chlorinated environments such as pool surrounds, you’ll want the A4 marine-grade Hapatec instead — most of our customers pair the C1 with their decking and the A4 with their oak cladding, and we’re happy to advise if you’re unsure which suits your boards. Both routes carry the same ETA approval and the same head geometry, so the finished look is identical. After installation, no maintenance is required beyond the normal cleaning of the deck or facade itself; a soft brush and water is all the heads will ever ask of you.

