Standard MDF Sheet – 3050×1220 mm (10×4′) – 12 mm
€42.50
In stock
| Quantity | Discount (%) | Price |
|---|---|---|
| 1 - 23 | — | €42.50 |
| 24 - 47 | 4% | €40.80 |
| 48+ | 8% | €39.10 |
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Hard, fine, smoothly sanded surface that takes paint, varnish and primer cleanly
L-MDF per EN 622-5 with E1 low-formaldehyde rating; also meets CARB Phase 2 and EPA TSCA Title VI
Dense uniform core machines predictably and gives superior screw and fastener holding
FSC-certified stock available on request; suits joinery, cabinetry, panelling and CNC work
For non-load-bearing dry-condition use; specify Moisture Resistant MDF for kitchens, bathrooms or humid areas
Edges absorb finish faster than the face; best results come with a dedicated MDF primer
Product specification
- Length
- 3050 mm
- Width
- 1220 mm
- Thickness
- 12 mm
- Coverage
- 3.72 m²
- Weight
- 32.1 kg
- Material
- Timber
12 mm MDF is the lightest board that will build a box here in the long sheet. It holds a dowel and a pocket screw and carries a shelf over a short span, so it makes cabinets, and in this length it makes tall ones: wardrobe gables in a room with a high ceiling, larder and bookcase uprights, boxing that runs floor to ceiling around a stack.
Cut those same uprights from a standard sheet and you are joining every one of them, which means biscuits or dominoes, support while the glue goes off, and a cross joint halfway up a panel. That joint is the line that opens first as the unit settles and the building moves, and in raking light down a wardrobe front it is the one thing anybody notices. Where the run is under 2440 mm the 2440×1220 mm sheet is the cheaper board for the same work.
Cutting and handling
At 32.1 kg this is a two person lift and an awkward one, because the length puts the load a long way from whoever has the far end. Move it on edge and break it down on trestles with a track saw rather than working off a full panel. Rip the long dimension first, because a sheet this length is hard to hold against a fence single handed and any wander in that cut comes back as a tapered unit side.
Fixing and painting
Glue and dowel, or glue and pocket screw, for the boxes. Pre-drill anything going into an edge and keep it back from the corner, because the edge splits without a pilot hole and a split in a full height gable wastes the whole length. Prime face and edges with a dedicated MDF primer, sand between coats, and give routed profiles an extra pass, since a profile exposes more absorbent core than a flat face.
Where not to use it
The core swells once it gets wet and does not recover, so if the job is a kitchen, a bathroom or a utility room use the moisture resistant grade instead. The rest of the thicknesses are on the Standard MDF page, and the wider range is on the MDF boards page.