Standard MDF Sheet – 3050×1220 mm (10×4′) – 18 mm
€74.50
In stock
| Quantity | Discount (%) | Price |
|---|---|---|
| 1 - 24 | — | €74.50 |
| 25 - 49 | 4% | €71.52 |
| 50+ | 8% | €68.54 |
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Hard, fine, smoothly sanded surface that takes paint, varnish and primer cleanly
L-MDF per EN 622-5 with E1 low-formaldehyde rating; also meets CARB Phase 2 and EPA TSCA Title VI
Dense uniform core machines predictably and gives superior screw and fastener holding
FSC-certified stock available on request; suits joinery, cabinetry, panelling and CNC work
For non-load-bearing dry-condition use; specify Moisture Resistant MDF for kitchens, bathrooms or humid areas
Edges absorb finish faster than the face; best results come with a dedicated MDF primer
Product specification
- Length
- 3050 mm
- Width
- 1220 mm
- Thickness
- 18 mm
- Coverage
- 3.72 m²
- Weight
- 48.2 kg
- Material
- Timber
18 mm MDF is the default joinery board. It is the thickness the hardware is drawn around: a confirmat at full depth in an edge, a hinge cup and plate that does not bottom out, a shelf pin with material left either side of the hole. Most work in it fits a standard sheet, and the long sheet is for the work that does not.
Full height wardrobe and larder gables, tall alcove and media joinery, floor to ceiling boxed columns, and the long pieces too: a window board on a wide opening, a continuous desk top, deep shelving. Any of them can be joined out of a standard sheet, but the joint needs biscuits or dominoes and support, it costs time on every unit, and it is the line that opens first as the building moves, showing through a sprayed finish afterwards. Where the piece is under 2440 mm the 2440×1220 mm sheet is the cheaper board.
Cutting and handling
At 48.2 kg this is two people at a minimum, on edge, with the route walked first, because it is the sheet that gets dropped on a stair turn. Break it down on trestles with a track saw rather than wrestling a full panel across a table saw, since at this weight and length the panel drives the cut, not the fence.
Fixing and painting
Glue and confirmat, or glue and dowel, for cabinet work. Pre-drill every fixing that goes into an edge and keep it back from the corner, because the edge splits without a pilot hole and a split in a full height gable wastes the whole length. Prime face and edges with a dedicated MDF primer and sand between coats, doing the edges and any routed profile first and giving them a second pass, since they drink far more finish than the flat face.
Where not to use it
The core swells once it gets wet and does not recover, so if the job is a kitchen, a bathroom or a utility room use the moisture resistant grade instead. The rest of the thicknesses are on the Standard MDF page, and the wider range is on the MDF boards page.